Samurai Mini Spool Illustrated Installation Guide

RedWolf · Last edited by RedWolf on Wed Jun 10, 2009 6:50 pm; edited 1 time in total

Suzuki Samurai Mini Spool Installation
Illustration and Text by Lou “RedWolf” Perez

This is a step by step guide to installing a Mini Spool in a Suzuki Samurai. The guide was prepared by Nelson and Lou because although there a couple of instructions on different websites either the instructions were a little too vague or the pictures were not of great quality. As it turns out, this is a simple install requiring only average mechanical skills.

Please note: While a Dial Indicator is the proper way to determine backlash, it is not necessary for setting the Backlash in this procedure... it is however, very important that you pay special attention to the instructions on “how to determine backlash”.

For the purposes of this guide we have omitted instructions on removing the axles to free the third member… these instructions are available not only on many websites but also in the Chilton and Haynes Manuals and are very straight forward.

This install can be accomplished with hand tools however, the availability of a pneumatic impact wrench and ratchet as well as a sturdy vise will make this a much easier project.

Once you have removed the 3rd member from the axle housing, mark the 3rd member to distinguish driver and passenger side. For the purposes of this install, all parts were marked with a Dremel. You may use a punch if you prefer however; Paint or Marker is not suggested as these marks are crucial and could easily come off during the cleaning process. The passenger side parts were marked with 1 notch and the Driver's side with two notches.

Before you begin disassembly, place the 3rd member in a coffee can on a clean workbench or table top. When disassembling you will want to keep all the parts you remove on the respective side of the work area. Next, you will need to mark the Bearing adjusters in relationship to the Carrier caps (remember 2 marks on the drivers side and 1 mark on the passenger side) as well as the right and left case to ensure proper alignment during reassembly.

For reference, the drivers side bearing adjuster is for adjusting the backlash, the passenger side bearing adjuster is for adjusting the preload on the bearings.

As mentioned the backlash adjustment can be done without a dial indicator, for the purposes of this guide we will show you how to check for backlash and mark your bearing adjuster to insure that the differential is reassembled to the same specifications prior to disassembly.

To check your backlash, lay the 3rd member on the table then hold the Joint Flange firmly with one hand while gently rocking the ring gear with the other. You will feel a very small amount of play. Repeat this several times until you are comfortable with the feel of the amount of play also known as backlash.

Before beginning the disasembly make sure your Bearing Adjusters are marked as shown in the pictures below.

The tools necessary for disassembly are as follows… pneumatic impact wrench and ratchet, 17mm, 14mm and 12mm impact sockets.

First loosen the 2 bolts on the Carrier Caps (both sides). Just break them loose… do not remove them as you will need them in place when you remove the bearing adjusters.

Next, loosen and remove the Adjuster lock plates, these can be removed with a open or box end wrench.

Next is the critical step. Starting with the bearing adjuster on the driver side (the backlash adjuster) slowly remove this adjuster while counting the number of complete revolutions it takes to remove it in relation to your marks. If it will not move by hand, lightly tap it with a hammer and screwdriver to break it free. In our case it was exactly 5 revolutions before it came off. Write down the number of revolutions it took and which bearing adjuster it was on a piece of paper for reference when reassembling.

Next remove the Preload bearing adjuster on the passenger side by using the same method. In our case it took 5 ¾ turns before it came off. The adjusters must be started in the same position they came off and the marks will line up again.

When removing the Carrier caps remove them gently so as not to damage the bearing races.

Next gently remove the races and inspect them as well as the bearings for unusual wear or damage.

Do not remove the bearings. In this step the ring gear assembly will be gently lifted from the 3rd member.

Once the ring gear assembly is removed set it aside and inspect the Pinion gear for wear of damage.

Remove the bolts that hold the Right case (passenger side) in place to expose the spider gear assembly. Remove the gear inside to expose the spider gears.

Next, Flip the assembly over to remove the left case (drivers side} that holds the ring gear. This will allow you to remove the pinion shafts which in turn will allow you to remove the spider gears and thrust washers, the case should now be empty.

Here are some pictures of all the components of the Ring and Pinion assembly once disassembled.

Next remove the old gasket material from the 3rd and clean all the parts you have removed (Brake Cleaner worked great). Make sure you keep them separated by driver or passenger side for reassembly.

Here is a pic of the spider gears that were removed. It is advisable to keep these parts in case you wish to revert back to an open ended differential for whatever reason. Make sure all 4 thrust washers are accounted for.

Here a picture of the mini spool that will be installed as well as thread lock which will be used on all bolts during reassembly.

Now that all parts have been cleaned and inspected the reassembly will begin.

First, place the spool inside the case.

Next, insert the Shafts

This is what your case should look like at this point.

Next place the right side case (passenger side) back on your housing (be sure to align your marks) and begin reinstalling the bolts (#11). As mentioned apply thread locker to the bolts prior to installation.

Now that the bolts are installed you will want to tighten the bolts with a torque wrench. According to the manual torque specifications for the #11 bolts are 14 to 21 ft/lbs. We tightened ours to 21.

Next you will install the left side case (drivers side). The #12 bolts require a torque setting of 28 to 40 ft/lbs. We tightened ours to 40.

At this point the ring gear assembly is now completely assembled and ready to be placed back in the 3rd.

Next, place the races back over the bearings and gently set the assembly back into the 3rd.

Reinstall the carrier caps and lightly tighten (finger tight) the 4 bolts (2 on each side).

Next you will insert the backlash bearing adjuster. Remember it must be started in the exact position that it came off when you were counting revolutions. If done correctly your marks will line up as they were when you marked them and the number of revolutions will match the number written down on your notepad.

Repeat the same procedure for bearing preload (passenger side) . If the number of revolutions does not match the number written on your note pad, remove the Bearing adjuster and start again until it does.Once they are in place, lay the 3rd member on the table and check the backlash as described in the beginning …it should feel identical to the way it did before disassembly.

Finally, torque the carrier cap bolts to 50 to 71 ft/lbs. We tightened ours to 70, then reinstall the adjuster lock plates and tighten… your installation is now complete!

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zukiman · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:35 am Post subject:

nice write up red, i like that you took the time to take pictures of every step, that is something i forget to do

Samaurishawn · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:27 am Post subject:

I will be shipping my 3rd member to you monday!

Nice job, and great write up.

RedWolf · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:00 am Post subject:

That's also why the install took us much longer than it should have. Nelson had his apart and back together in half the time Laughing

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RedWolf · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:01 am Post subject:

zukiman · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 1:18 pm Post subject:

i think i remember saying that to someone Wink

RedWolf · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:25 pm Post subject:

I think that was me Shocked

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calabrias1962 · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:10 pm Post subject:

Great write up Lou Id just like to add its a good idea to lubricate the bearings before puting back together or rotate the pinion flange by hand after filling the case back up.
Real good pics.

nagtrainer · Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:43 pm Post subject:

Very well done. Can't wait to get my camera going.
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Welcome to CBE... Our modow is "why buy it when ya can build it fer less"

RedWolf · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:44 am Post subject:

Oh sure... but you didn't do that with mine Shocked

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KiwiLeigh · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:30 am Post subject:

What a great article. I've always been scared of diff's because I never really knew exactly how they went together, but this write-up has given me a lot more confidence to tackle doing something when necessary.

Is the kick rear diff virtually identical to the Sami?

zukiman · Posted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:16 am Post subject:

yes they are, many people will swap tracker thirds with the lower gearing intoa samurai

Cooper · Posted: Tue Jan 27, 2009 10:00 pm Post subject:

Nice right up! I will be coming back to this page when I install one on my ride!

meanbgreen · Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2011 11:41 pm Post subject:

About to take the Jimny to the auto hobby shop to get mine installed as I am not sure a samurai one will work for a Jimny. Figure I will let them try if it is to be done in vein

Adi21 · Tree Hugger Joined: Sep 27, 2011 Posts: 1

Awesome Thanks for share very infomrative article!!!
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